Pharmacognosy - 11. Herbal cosmetics
Herbal Cosmetics
How to Access the Quiz for This Chapter
Click on Quiz on the right → enter your Details → select D. Pharmacy → choose Pharmacognosy → then select 11. Herbal cosmetics.
Aloe Vera Gel
Biological Source
Aloe is the dried juice (or fresh gel) collected by incision, from the bases of the leaves of various species of Aloe, such as Aloe perryi, Aloe vera, Aloe barbadensis.
Family
Liliaceae (or Asphodelaceae)
Chemical Constituents
- Major Chemical Constituents:
- Aloin: This is a major anthraquinone glycoside present in aloe (primarily in the latex/juice, less in pure gel).
- Barbaloin: This is another major anthraquinone glycoside (primarily in latex/juice).
- Aloe-emodin: This is a hydroxyanthraquinone derivative, found in aloe.
- Polysaccharides, notably acemannan (Major component of the inner gel).
- Minor Chemical Constituents:
- Various other anthraquinones and their glycosides, such as emodin, chrysophanic acid, and ethereal oil (mainly in latex).
- Vitamins, enzymes, minerals, sugars, lignin, saponins, salicylic acids, and amino acids.
Therapeutic and Cosmetic Uses:
- Skin care: because of its moisturizing, soothing, and healing properties.
- Wound healing: stimulating cell growth and reducing inflammation.
- Hair care: help to reduce dandruff and promote hair growth.
- Digestive health: Aloe vera juice is sometimes used to treat constipation and other digestive problems (due to aloin in latex, use with caution).
Commercial preparations:
Harvesting and Washing:
Mature aloe vera plants are harvested, typically by hand, to minimize damage. The leaves are then thoroughly washed to remove dirt, debris, and any potential contaminants. This may involve multiple washing stages, sometimes with the use of mild disinfectants or filtration processes.
Filleting and Separation:
The thick outer layer (rind) of the leaf is carefully removed, usually using specialized filleting machines. This layer contains aloin, a compound with laxative properties undesirable in most cosmetic and topical applications. The inner gel is then separated from the remaining leaf tissue. This can be done manually, although large-scale producers often use automated filleting and de-coring machines that efficiently extract the gel.
Stabilization and Processing:
The extracted gel is prone to rapid degradation due to enzymatic activity and microbial growth. To ensure safety and stability, stabilization techniques are employed.
- Pasteurization: Heating the gel to a specific temperature for a controlled time inactivates enzymes and eliminates most harmful microorganisms.
- Filtration: Microfiltration techniques can remove bacteria and other contaminants while preserving beneficial components.
- Addition of Preservatives: Carefully chosen preservatives are often added within safe limits to further extend shelf life and prevent microbial spoilage. Common options include citric acid, potassium sorbate, and sodium benzoate.
Thickening and Formulation:
Depending on the desired final product (gel, lotion, cream, etc.), thickening agents are often added. These can be natural ingredients like xanthan gum or carrageenan, or synthetic thickeners like carbomer.
Aloe vera gel is available in a variety of commercial preparations, including:
- Ointments and creams
- Lotions
- Gels
- Juices
- Powders
- Capsules
Almond Oil
Sources:
Almond oil is extracted from the seeds (kernels) of sweet almonds (Prunus dulcis).
Family
Rosaceae.
Chemical Constituents:
Almond oil is primarily composed of fatty acids, with the main ones being:
- Oleic acid (60-80%): A monounsaturated fatty acid that provides moisturizing and emollient properties.
- Linoleic acid (15-20%): A polyunsaturated fatty acid with anti-inflammatory and nourishing benefits.
- Palmitic acid (5-10%): A saturated fatty acid that contributes to the oil\'s consistency.
- Other minor components: Vitamin E, phytosterols, and minerals.
Therapeutic and Cosmetic Uses:
Skin:
- Moisturizer
- Soothing
- Gentle cleanser
- Massage oil
Hair:
- Conditioner
- Scalp treatment
Commercial Preparations:
Sourcing and Cleaning:
- High-quality almonds: Manufacturers source almonds from reliable growers who prioritize sustainable and responsible farming practices.
- Cleaning and sorting: The almonds are meticulously cleaned to remove dirt, debris, and any foreign objects. Sorting may involve automated equipment or manual inspection to ensure only healthy and intact seeds move forward.
Oil Extraction:
- Cold pressing: This method, often preferred for preserving the oil\'s natural qualities, uses pressure without excessive heat to extract the oil from the crushed almonds. Screw presses or hydraulic presses are common options for cold pressing.
- Solvent extraction: While less common, some manufacturers may use solvents like hexane to extract the oil more efficiently. However, this method requires additional processing to remove the solvent and may not be favored by consumers seeking a \"natural\" product.
Filtration and Purification:
- Filtration: The extracted oil is passed through filters to remove any remaining solids or impurities. Depending on the desired level of purity, different filtration techniques like gravity settling, pressure filtration, or centrifugation may be employed.
- Purification: Additional processing steps like degumming (removing gums and resins) and deodorization (removing unwanted odors) may be implemented to further refine the oil and enhance its stability and marketability.
Commercial Forms:
Almond oil is widely available in various commercial forms:
- Pure almond oil: This is the most common form, used for various cosmetic and therapeutic purposes.
- Carrier oil: Almond oil is often used as a carrier oil in diluted solutions for essential oils.
- Ingredient in cosmetics: Almond oil is a common ingredient in various cosmetic products, including lotions, creams, soaps, and lip balms.
- Food-grade oil: Sweet almond oil can be used for culinary purposes, although it is not as common as other cooking oils.
Lavender oil
Biological Source
Lavender oil is extracted from the flowering tops of the lavender plant Lavandula angustifolia.
Family
Lamiaceae.
Chemical Constituents:
Lavender oil contains numerous compounds, with the most prominent being:
- Linalool: This compound contributes to the oil\'s floral scent and possesses calming and anti-inflammatory properties.
- Linalyl acetate: This ester gives lavender oil its sweet, herbaceous notes and offers antimicrobial and sedative effects.
Other Constituents: Pinene, geraniol, and cineol.
Therapeutic and Cosmetic Uses:
Skin:
- Antiseptic and anti-inflammatory: potential to fight bacteria and reduce inflammation.
- Wound healing: promote wound healing and reduce scarring.
- Soothing and calming: for soothing irritated skin, sunburns, and insect bites.
Mind and Body:
- Relaxation and stress relief: calming and relaxing effects, promoting better sleep and reducing anxiety.
- Pain relief: relief for headaches and muscle tension when applied topically.
- Aromatherapy: relaxation and stress management.
Commercial Preparation of Lavender Oil
Cultivation and Harvesting:
- Large-scale producers cultivate specific lavender varieties known for their high essential oil yield: Lavandula angustifolia.
- Seasonal harvest: peak bloom, usually between June and August.
- Hand-cutting or mechanical harvesting: specialized mechanical harvesters.
Drying (Optional):
- Fresh vs. dried lavender: While some producers directly process fresh flowers, others prefer drying the lavender for a few days in shaded, well-ventilated areas.
Steam Distillation:
- The core method: Steam distillation is the primary method used for commercially extracting lavender oil. It efficiently separates the volatile oil from the plant material.
- Distillation apparatus: A large steel vat (still) holds the lavender flowers. Steam is generated in a separate chamber and piped into the still, passing through the plant material.
- Vaporization and condensation: The heat from the steam vaporizes the essential oil components along with water vapor. This mixture travels through a cooling condenser, where it condenses back into liquid.
- Separation: The condensed liquid separates naturally into two layers due to differing densities. The lighter essential oil floats on top of the water (hydrosol), allowing for easy collection.
Decanting and Filtration:
- Separating the oil: The top layer, containing the essential oil, is carefully decanted.
- Removing impurities: The oil may undergo further filtration to remove any remaining water droplets or plant debris, ensuring a pure and stable product.
Olive oil
Biological Source
Olive oil is extracted from the fruit (drupes) of the olive tree - Olea europaea.
Family
Oleaceae.
Chemical Constituents:
It contains blend of fatty acids and other components:
- Oleic acid (around 70%), a type of MUFA (Monounsaturated fatty acids) known for its moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
- Palmitic acid is the primary SFA (Saturated fatty acids) in olive oil (around 14%), contributing to its texture and stability.
- Linoleic acid, a PUFA (Polyunsaturated fatty acids) present in smaller amounts (around 10%).
- Antioxidants: Contains natural antioxidants like vitamin E and phenolic compounds (e.g., oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol), which help protect the skin from free radical damage.
Therapeutic and Cosmetic Uses:
Skin:
- Moisturizer
- Emollient
- Cleanser
- Protective barrier
- Antioxidant benefits
Hair:
- Conditioner
- Scalp soother
Commercial preparation of olive oil:
Harvesting:
When they reach specific level of ripeness, hand-picked or mechanically harvested.
Washing and sorting:
Washed to remove dirt, leaves, and any debris. Sorting to separate damaged or unripe fruits.
Crushing and Malaxation:
Crushed into a paste, which further undergoes a slow churning process (malaxation) to encourage oil droplet coalescence. Centrifugation may be used after malaxation for initial separation.
Oil Extraction:
- Pressing (traditional): placing the olive paste onto mats and applying pressure to squeeze out the oil.
- Centrifugation (Modern): high-speed centrifuges to separate the oil from water and solids more efficiently.
Rosemary Oil
Biological Source
Rosemary oil is distilled from the flowering tops or leafy twigs of Rosmarinus officinalis.
Family
Lamiaceae.
Chemical Constituents:
It contains blend components:
- The main constituents of the oils were p-cymene, linalool, gamma-terpinene, thymol, beta-pinene, alpha-pinene and eucalyptol (1,8-cineole).
- The oil consisted of monoterpenic hydrocarbons, oxygenated monoterpenes and sesquiterpene hydrocarbons.
- Camphor is also a significant component.
Therapeutic Uses:
- Taking rosemary by mouth might somewhat improve memory in young adults.
- May Help Relieve Pain.
- Reduce Joint Inflammation.
- Stimulant, Carminative, Antioxidant
Cosmetics Uses:
- Stimulates Hair Growth.
- It deeply hydrates skin and can be used instead of moisturiser.
- Its anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties help battle acne.
- It helps reduce the appearance of blemishes and can be used to lighten stretch marks.
Sandal Wood oil
Biological Source
Sandalwood oil is obtained by distillation of the heartwood of sandalwood, Santalum album.
Family
Santalaceae.
Chemical Constituents:
It contains blend components:
- The main odorous and medicinal constituent of Sandal-wood is santalol.
- This primary sesquiterpene alcohol forms more than 90% of the oil and is present as a mixture of two isomers, α-santalol and β-santalol, the former predominating.
- The other constituents reported are hydrocarbons santene, nor-tricycloekasantalene, α-, and β- santalenes.
Therapeutic Uses:
- A chemo-protective action on liver carcinogenesis in mice has been demonstrated.
- Used for symptomatic treatment of DYSURIA (medical term for pain or discomfort when urinating)
- Antiseptic (urinary tract), Anti-inflammatory, Sedative (in aromatherapy)
Cosmetics Uses:
- Sandalwood oil is highly used in perfumery creations and finds an important place in soaps, face creams, and toilet powders.